Bathroom Remodeling

Full Bathroom Remodeling

Everything out to the studs and subfloor, then rebuilt in order. It is the most disruptive version and, in a bathroom that has been patched twice already, usually the cheapest one over ten years.

  • NJ HIC Reg. #13VH12107200
  • 14+ years in North Jersey
  • Kitchens and bathrooms only
Completed full bathroom with a glass shower enclosure, a tiled wet area, a wood vanity and a stone top

A full bathroom remodel means the room comes out entirely (fixtures, tile, substrate, sometimes the subfloor) and gets rebuilt from the framing outward. It is the most disruptive option available and it is frequently the correct one, particularly in a house where the bathroom has already been patched by two previous owners.

When a full remodel is the right call

The clearest indicators:

  • The shower has failed. If water has reached the framing, the assembly has to come out. Once it does, most of the room is already open.
  • The floor is soft near the toilet or outside the tub, which means the subfloor is going.
  • Original galvanized supply piping that is restricting flow. Replacing it means opening walls.
  • The layout is the problem. No amount of new tile fixes a room where the door hits the vanity.
  • Multiple previous patches. Each one hid something. Opening it up is how you stop paying for the last person's shortcut.
  • You want to change accessibility, which needs blocking, a different entry and often a wider door.

If none of those apply and the room is simply dated, a lighter scope may serve you better. We will say so.

Demolition and what it reveals

Demolition in a bathroom is as much investigation as removal. Protection goes down first (floors, stairs, the route to the door) and in a plaster-and-lath house, containment matters because plaster dust travels everywhere.

Then everything comes out: vanity, toilet, tub or shower, tile, substrate, and usually the subfloor in the wet areas. What we find determines whether the schedule holds. Rotted sheathing and plates get replaced. Soft subfloor gets cut back to sound material and re-sheathed. If joists have taken water, they get sistered.

You will hear about anything we find on the day we find it, with a plain description of what it means and what the options cost. That conversation is much easier when it was flagged as a possibility beforehand.

Rough plumbing

With the walls open, this is the moment for anything the room needs for the next thirty years.

Supply lines get replaced where they are galvanized steel, which by now is almost always restricting flow. Drains get checked for slope and for venting; older houses sometimes have arrangements that worked in 1930 and would not be approved today. Fixture positions are set, and the shower valve is replaced with a pressure-balancing or thermostatic type.

If the layout is changing, this is where it happens. Sink easy, shower moderate, toilet hardest. Everything gets pressure-tested before inspection.

Rough electrical

Bathroom electrical is governed by proximity to water. Receptacles need GFCI protection. Fixtures over a tub or in a shower need to be rated for damp or wet locations. Switches cannot be within reach of the tub.

While the walls are open, this is when to add: a properly sized exhaust fan on its own circuit, sconce boxes beside the mirror at the right height, a receptacle inside the vanity for a toothbrush charger or hair dryer, and a heated floor circuit if you want one. Every one of these is cheap now and a wall repair later.

Planning a full remodel? The most useful thing you can tell us on a first call is what is directly under the bathroom.

Call (862) 218-7292

Ventilation

The exhaust fan is not a detail. Steam that is not removed goes into the drywall, the paint and the framing, which is why old bathrooms grow mold in the ceiling corners.

Three requirements: the fan is sized to the room, it ducts to the outside rather than into an attic or soffit, and it actually runs long enough to clear the air. A humidity-sensing switch or a timer handles the last one better than human memory. Insulating the duct in an unheated attic prevents condensation forming inside the duct and running back down.

Waterproofing

Covered fully on the shower remodeling page, and it is the part of a full remodel that decides whether the work lasts. A continuous waterproof layer, a properly sloped pan, correct detailing at corners, curb, niche and drain. Cement board is a substrate, not a barrier.

Tile and finish

Floor first or walls first depends on the details, but the substrate has to be right either way: flat, stiff, and prepared for the material going on it. In an older house the floor often needs an added layer or an uncoupling membrane before tile.

Then tile, cure, grout, seal. Flexible sealant at every change of plane rather than grout, because that is where the building moves.

Fixtures and vanity

The vanity goes in after the floor, then the top, sink and faucet. Toilets get set on a new flange at the correct height relative to the finished floor: a flange left too low after a floor build-up is a leak waiting to happen, and is a genuinely common defect.

Shower glass is measured after the tile is complete and installed a week or so later. Mirrors, lighting, towel bars and paper holders all need blocking behind them, which was installed at rough-in.

Accessibility, decided now

A full remodel is the only cheap moment to build in accessibility. Solid blocking in the walls for future grab bars costs almost nothing while they are open. A low-curb or curbless entry, a 32-inch clear door opening, a comfort-height toilet and a hand shower on a slide bar are all straightforward at this stage.

Whether you need any of it today, it is worth deciding deliberately rather than by default. See accessible bathroom remodeling.

Living through it

If this is a second bathroom, the disruption is manageable. If it is the only full bathroom in the house, plan seriously: where people shower, what the daily routine looks like for three or four weeks, and how the sequence can be arranged to shorten the worst of it.

Practical things that help: a clear work route with protection down, a portable air scrubber during demolition, and a schedule you have actually seen so you know which days are loud.

What drives the cost

  • Room size and tile coverage. Floor-to-ceiling on every wall is several times a tub surround.
  • Whether fixtures move, and especially whether the toilet does.
  • Hidden damage found at demolition, which is the genuine unknown.
  • Shower configuration, curbless, bench, niches, glass.
  • Supply line replacement where galvanized piping is present.
  • Fixture and vanity selection, which spans an enormous range.
  • Electrical scope, including fan, lighting and heated floor.
  • Structural repair to joists or subfloor.

Full remodels across our service area

We do these in Maplewood, Montclair, Newark, Westfield and across the rest of our service area. Back to bathroom remodeling.

Common questions

Full remodel questions

How long will the bathroom be out of use?

Three to four weeks of active work for a room that keeps its layout, longer if fixtures move or the demolition turns up damage. The room is unusable for essentially all of it. If it is the only full bathroom in the house, we plan the sequence to get a working shower and toilet back as early as the inspections allow, and we tell you the realistic number of days before we start.

Is a full remodel worth it versus doing pieces?

If the room is genuinely dated but sound, doing pieces is reasonable. If the shower has failed, the floor is soft, or the plumbing is original galvanized steel, doing pieces means opening the same walls twice and paying twice for demolition, waterproofing and tile. Once you are taking the shower apart, the marginal cost of doing the whole room is smaller than most people expect.

What normally turns up at demolition?

In houses of the age we mostly work on: rotted subfloor around the toilet flange from a wax ring that failed years ago, wet framing behind a tub surround, galvanized supply lines closing up internally, and cast-iron waste pipe that is still fine but cannot easily be moved. None of it is exotic and all of it is better addressed while the walls are open.

Can the layout change?

Usually yes, within limits set by the plumbing. The sink is easy to move, the shower or tub is moderate, and the toilet is the hardest because its drain is the largest and needs proper fall and venting. Over an open basement most changes are achievable. Over a slab, moving the toilet is a significantly bigger job.

Do you handle the permits?

Yes. Plumbing and electrical work in a bathroom requires permits under New Jersey's Uniform Construction Code, applied for and inspected through your own municipality. Rough inspections happen before anything is covered and there is a final inspection at completion. We confirm the specific requirements with your town's construction office for your scope.

What order does the work happen in?

Protection, demolition, structural repairs, rough plumbing and electrical, rough inspections, then close the walls, waterproofing, tile, then fixtures, vanity, glass, trim, paint and final inspection. Each step depends on the one before it, which is why a bathroom cannot be compressed much regardless of how many people are on site.

Call about a full remodel

Tell us the room size, what is under it, and whether it is the only bathroom in the house. Those three answers shape everything.

(862) 218-7292
Hallie Home Improvement llc Call (862) 218-7292
(862) 218-7292